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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.